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Plaster Paint Waxes & Sealants!!

Plaster Paint Waxes & Sealants!!

Looking for just the right sealant?!

If your familiar with chalk paints you are aware that 90% require wax or a sealant to finish them, or in other words, the waxes keep all the painty goodness in without wiping & chipping off.

There are a few paints out there that do not require sealing, like our One Step paint. But you have to be aware of what the “one step” paints out there are capable of.

They are great for basic finishing (solid colour, no layering, clean look) but if your waiting to use them on hard wearning areas such as tables, cabinets, chairs etc. most of them require you or “suggest” you to add an additional top coat to that piece.

These types of paints have a built in top coat but that top coat only protects to a certain degree. So again, if you want something to really hold up and be tough as nails a good coat of wax on top will always be the best route. That extra bit of sealing on the top of the paint will lock in all that fresh paint and give you the durability you need.

Below is the break downs of our waxes, their properties and how to apply them:

Need a wax?

Let's start with traditional paste wax.  Plaster Paint Paste Wax is a Carnauba wax base, the hardest natural wax known to man.  Paste Wax is best used on wood surfaces such as furniture, cabinetry, floors & any wood decor.  Paste wax gives a silky smooth, rich finish.

Our paste waxes come in two options, Original Paste & Antiquing. the only differences between these two waxes is the Antiquing wax has an added brown tint to highlight and emphasize your pieces features.

We suggest using one of our Restore Wax Brushes when applying paste wax, these brushes give you great control when applying and get into the little grooves and cracks. Since Paste wax needs to be buffed to activate a seal, you can choose between a neutral buffing cloth or our buffer brush that easily attaches to your drill.

Now that you know a little about the Paste Waxes here’s how to apply it.

Preparation:

1.  Make sure piece is dry & lint free.

Application:

1.  Use a dry natural bristle brush (preferred brushes below) and apply a very thin coat of Paste Wax.

2. Apply in a circular motion one way, then go back over in the reverse direction.

3. Finish by brushing back flat and do not allow to dry with swirls.

4. Once dry, buff vigorously while applying pressure using buffer brush or dry clean cloth (neutral colour).  The best and easiest way to buff is using our buffer brush attached to an electric drill.

5. As you buff and create friction you will see your project change from dull to silky smooth.  The finish will be stunning!

Clean up:

1. Water based soap and water clean up.

How about Liquid Wax?

Our next options for waxes is our Liquid option, the liquid waxes are newer to the chalk paint world, but let me tell you, once you try a liquid wax it’s hard use anything but. That being said I do believe there is a time and place to use either product in different applications.

Liquid wax is great for use indoors or outdoors – You can choose from Super Gloss or Matte finish and the best part, No BUFFING required! Used for all furniture pieces & recommended for all metal, plastics, glass, appliances, countertops & most non-porous surfaces.

We find the best way to apply liquid wax is by using our signature bristle brushes, or restore® synthetic.

   

                  Signature Brush                                  Restore Synthetic

 

The Liquid Wax Matte will give you a beautiful satin, vintage look and is perfect for any project but especially great on darker colors.  The Liquid Gloss semi gloss leaves a high sheen bringing out the vibrancy to your colors.

Here’s how to prepare & apply:

1.  Allow piece to fully dry before apply wax.

2.  Make sure piece is dust and lint free.

3.  Just open jar and begin application.

Application:

1.  Fully saturate your brush with liquid wax.   Not using enough wax on your brush can cause the finish to dry splotchy and show brush strokes.  That being said make sure your wax isn’t pooling in cracks or dripping, this will cause the wax to dry white.

2. Wax will dry in about 30-35 mins depending on humidity  and temperature.  Painting and waxing are best done at room temperature or above.

3. Let dry for 35-40 mins for a touchable dry, 24 hours for a full cure.

Clean up:

1.  Water based soap and water clean up.

Additional Info:

  • Low VOC’s
  • A cure time of seven days is highly recommended for items such as counter tops or slick surfaces.

Our last and one of my favourite finishing tools, Magic Seal!!! Oh boy does this wax save a DIYer some serious time. Jewels Magic Seal is a non-sticky water based, NO odor product which truly seems like magic. Perfect for sealing between layers or using as your final sealant – it will create a semi gloss finish.

Here’s how to apply:

Application:

1. Shake and spray can vigorously for one minute.

2. Hold your spray can 6-8 inches away from project surface.

3. Spray your project using several thin coats, instead of one thick coat.

4. Use an even side-to-side motion ending the spray off the piece & beginning the spray off the piece.

5. Allow wax to dry thoroughly for 1-2 hours or until cured.  Add second coat if applying to heavily used surfaces.

Additional Notes:

  • Great for chairs and groves on furniture.
  • Non yellowing.

AND... 

Thats the sum of our current line of waxes and sealants. If you have any further questions about any of these products or how to apply them, please contact us and we will be happy to help. Until next time!!

Always be creating!

Layne and Matt

Dry Garden Soil? Not anymore!!

Dry Garden Soil? Not anymore!!

Hooray for summer!

It is right in the middle of our growing season and we are thrilled about it!! Green-thumbs, sudo-green-thumbs and try hards alike are all running around like busy bees trying to keep everything in their yards green and healthy. Hoses are stretched across lawns running into gardens and green houses making sure all our precious little veggies and flowers have enough water and food to get through these summer heat waves. 

Watering the garden

BUT...

If your garden is anything like ours though, you will water it for an hour or so just to return a short while later, only to find that it is dry again!!

WHAT!! WHAT?!

Our soil at home is super sandy. I don't mean that it is a little bit sandy I mean it is ALOT SANDY. Like so many places in beautiful southern Alberta where we live, the soil can be very touch and go from location to location on its quality as well as ability to support growing plants.

Sandy soil isn't the end of gardening as you know it but if your garden soil looks something like this,--------------------------------------->>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Matt and Laynes Backyard

We are going to give you a few pointers on how to combat your sahara growing conditions.

Believe it or not there are some benefits to sandy soil!

First of all, if you have really high levels of sand, it means you probably have really good drainage. All gardens need to be able to drain water to promote healthy roots. Unless your plant species are aqua born, roots need to be able to breath air or they suffocate. 

So as annoying as sandy soil is, at least you are at a starting point of excellent drainage!!

So how do i fix this??

There are a few fixes that you can dot change your soil from looking like a sandbox, to resembling a bag of horticulturist created mulch!

Compost bin

The easiest fix is to just add plain old compost to your garden or green space. the only issue is that to turn soil from sand to mulch requires a great deal of compost and quite a bit of time. It will take you 2-3 seasons of adding 4-8 inch layers of compost to your garden and mixing it all together at the beginning of the year to change the composition of your soil. This process takes a few years to be able to give your soil a chance to settle for you to work out any kinks and lumps.

OR, you can do this!!

This solution is called Hugelkultur. 

Yes I spelled correctly and no I'm not sure how to pronounce it properly. This method involves burying large masses of wood beneath your garden. It sounds funny at first, but it makes a lot of sense. Forests work on this principal. That is to promote new growth on top of old growth. 

It truly is that simple, bury wood beneath your soil and allow your soil and compost the wood for as long as it takes. The rotting wood will hold lots of water for your plants as well as share their nutrients with your new crop of veggies and flowers. 

Poplar works great as a wood for this type of solution! Other woods that work well are alders, apple, aspen, birch, maple, oak, poplar, and willow. Just make sure that if you use will that it is dead or you will start to sprout willow trees!!

Wood mulch

Whatever you fix to get rid of your sand we with you luck! 

Don't fret if your garden is sandy right now, though. Water at least once a day and give the garden some natural fertilizers at least once every 3 weeks and you will be surprised how well you are growing in your garden!!

Always Be Creating

Matt and Layne

 

Choosing the right Paint to redo YOUR furniture!

Choosing the right Paint to redo YOUR furniture!

Choosing The right Plaster Paint product.

One Step vs Original Plaster Paint (including metallics)

Decisions, decisioins...First I will give you a little run through of what each paint's properties are and their pros and cons.

First, One Step.

Plaster Paint One Step

PROS

  • smooth with a chalk look and feel finish
  • durable, vibrant and long lasting paint
  • has a built in top coat, meaning no sealing required
  • ideal for doors or kitchen and bathroom cabinet makeovers
  • thick, self-leveling coats
  • distress-able
  • low voice's
  • no order
  • soap and water clean up
  • won't mold

CONS

  • minor sanding or the use of New Surface is recommended before paint application unless your applying to raw wood
  • cannot layer this paint with other colours or other paints
  • limited colour options

 Next, Original Plaster Paint (including Metallics)

Original Plaster PaintPROS
  • requires minimal to no prep work or sanding
  • soap and water clean up
  • low VOC's
  • no oder
  • won't mold
  • can be applied to just about any surface including wood, metal, glass and fabric
  • durable finish once sealed
  • thick, self-leveling coats
  • available in 39 colour options
  • great for layering two or more colors to achieve anything from shabby chic to flawlessly finished
  • inexpensive

CONS

  • needs to be finished/sealed with a top coat, however, the sealant does provide an extra level of protection.
  • If you're still wondering what would best suit your project, here is my suggestion. If you enjoy playing, mixing and layering and want your paint to dry quickly, go with the Original.
  • If you want a simple solid coat that has a super tough finish, go with the One Step. Just remember, it takes 4-8 hours to dry completely.

Tables and cabinets can go either way. If you want a solid single colour then One Step is great, but we highly suggest adding our liquid wax (even though it's not necessary). A coat or two of added protection goes a long way when you're working with tables and any heavy wearing area.

Again, if you want to add more than one colour to your cupboards then original is excellent. Just make sure you seal.

So now that your more familiar with our paint its time to choose! Watch our video to get a more detailed explanation on our paint lines.

Always be creating!!

Matt & Layne